La Cumbre

I don’t know why I wait until I’m about ready to leave a town before writing about it. Because now I’m sad, and once again I’m facing a move to a new place tomorrow, with all the uncertainties accompanying it. Louise is happy, I think – the lying low has become boring to her. Or she sadistically derives pleasure from putting me to work…

La Cumbre lies 57km slightly northwest of Córdoba, which is one of the big cities in the northwestern part of Argentina. It is quite high up in a valley known as Valle de Punilla, and has tree-covered hills on the northeastern side, much of it which had sadly burnt down the weekend before I arrived. We had a monstrous lighting, thunder, hail and rain storm 2 nights ago and rain most of last night, so nature is revived and the plants and trees can happily grow again. There was even water running in a river when I went for a walk yesterday morning.

The history of the town is quite interesting. Originally the land was given to 5 siblings of Capt Bartolome Jaimes in 1585, and in 1633 Capt Geronimo de Quevedo obtained a part of it and named it San Geronimo (St Jerome). For three centuries things stayed pretty much the same, until the English built a railway-line past here in 1892. A police station, school and chapel followed, and in 1900 the name was changed to La Cumbre (The Summit) as it was the highest point of the railway. The train no longer runs and the station building is now used as tourist office. The tracks are still there, but in town the grass has covered them.

By 1911 a municipality was started and attention was given to streets and water for the 200 inhabitants at that time. Many English stayed, and the railway officials decided that La Cumbre’s climate was much more suitable than elsewhere, so large plots with mansions and sweeping gardens were established. In the 1930’s tourism and the threat of war made the town a popular destination, as the large plots, relaxed living and different lifestyle were appealing to many people. I think affluent Spanish families must have moved here too, because on the northern side of town there are mansions with names such as Granada, Seville and Toledo.

The tudor style houses built by the English, or influenced by them, are still everywhere. Some are neglected, but many are as beautiful as ever and one can just imagine the Victorian lifestyle that must have been quite something during the heyday of the town.

I was most intrigued by this A-framed hotel sitting on a hill overlooking the town. I’m sure it warrants a movie, it so romantic:

One of the popular things to do in La Cumbre is to walk up the hill to where a figure of Christ (El Cristo) has been erected (at least not a thousand steps!). One has a beautiful view of the town and valley from there.

The golf course is immaculately kept and has a stately old clubhouse:

On Saturday, as I was returning from that interesting walk, I happened to go past one of the squares and noticed that something was happening, as the whole town was congregating there. It turned out to be a ceremony to praise and thank the firemen who had so bravely fought the fire in the mountains. I didn’t stay, I was too sweaty and soot-covered, but later I heard a parade of cars with sirens blaring for a long time. What a celebration of work well done!

During my walkabouts in town I came accross some interesting modern buildings, some other sites, and even a municipal swimming pool built in one of the rivers.

I could happily stay here in La Cumbre – the large plots, relaxed atmosphere and lifestyle appeal to me tambien (too). It seems to be a place where nature is still revered and something is always happening. This past weekend there was a bicycle race, but I never found out what it exactly involved or how far they rode – language barrier!

And I’ve made friends, and might even come back here after my stay in Peru, to teach English. Lida and Anton are from Holland and they live in the next village, Los Cocos, just 5km away. They moved here two years ago, and she is a student of Luis (my host), being trained to be a silversmith. She invited me to their home, one of the beautiful old English colonial houses, and mentioned that she knows the owner of an English language school and would ask her about the possiblity of a job. If it happens… well: serendipity!