To cycle or not

Sometimes I surprise myself by making the right decision. I don’t know how yóú make decisions, but mine are usually based on inner conviction, intuition or impulse. None of these methods are infallible and none are necessarily always right. I’m inclined to advise my clients and friends to weigh up negatives and positives, basing their decisions on which side carries the most weight. Once they’ve made a decision, they should sleep on it, and if it still feels right in the morning, it is a good decision. I wish I would practice what I preach, it might significantly decrease my bad decisions. Be that as it may, yesterday I made a góód decision, and I was extremely relieved about it.

Some background information: Cafayáte is known for its special wines made from grapes that are cultivated at high altitudes, especially the torrentés and malbec. It is also at the bottom end of the Quebrada de las Conches (conches means shells) a ravine of 50km towards Salta, through which the Calchaquí river runs, or rather trickles most of the year. The scenery, mountains and rock formations are spectacular and they have daily excursions of about 5hrs that one can join for $800 ($, with only one slash, is the sign used for pesos). Other options of viewing it is by bicycle, or taking a bus to the end point and hitchhiking back.

Two Danish girls staying at the hostel rented bikes and put them on the bus, travelling to the end point and cycling back. According to them it was downhill most of the way, excepting for two uphills. Very easy. At that stage I was under the impression that the river was flowing towards Cafayáte, so the ‘downhill’ made sense. (I think by now you are familiar with my ‘assumptions’.) It sounded like a brilliant plan which I was planning to execute myself, seeing I am keen on cycling and in need of exercise. That was until I heard the price for renting bicycles and the bus ticket, which added up to much more than the guided tour. The first seeds of doubt grew to fruition as I contemplated the 50km, a distance I have never ridden and probably would not be a good idea at 66yrs. I still had doubts as I booked the guided tour, but omigosh, after the first 10km in the minibus I realised what a catastrophe me on a bike would have been. The river runs the other way, there would have been many strenuous uphills, no shade and 50km is fár!! I relaxed, forgiving myself wholeheartedly for chosing the easier option, and had a superb day. Good decision (I still don’t know how I actually made it).

The tour operator was excellent, humorous, caring and full of enthusiasm. He stopped at eight places along the way, giving us ample time to wander around and enjoy the scenery. These were the first scenes we were presented with and it only got more impressive as we travelled through the ravine.We had to walk about 500m to the following scene, where many colours were visible in the formations:I was told that the red indicates the presence of iron, green is copper, brown is sinc, blue is cobult, yellow is sulphur and white could be salt or gypsum.

The Garganta del Diablo (Devil’s Throat) is at the turning point, and our guide encouraged us to scale the rocks that were off-limits, to reach a point where a solid flat slab lies at a 45° angle, as if it had been solidly pushed out of the earth, unbelievable.The site just before the Devil’s Throat is called the Amphitheatre, and has a marvelous acoustic. There was man playing a traditional flute, a beautiful haunting sound filling the huge space, sending shivers down one’s spine. It was our last stop, and quite a few of the tourists sat down in the ‘theatre’ and shared their mate (tea).

Each bend in the road opens up another breathtaking view, and about half way through we stopped at an artisan shop for some wine tasting and ‘selfies with llamas’ – what people find amusing never ceases to amaze me. The wine was excellent though, I sampled the sweet torrentés, very fruity and aromatic.Another soul enriching experience. I am so blessed. At one point, in a crevis in the green rocks, I spontaneously dropped to my knees, feeling deep and humble gratefulness and respect for Mother Earth, in all her glory. Pachamama came to mind, without me even quite understanding the meaning of the Inka earth/time goddess. It was just there.