I have decided to name her Louise, this pink companion of mine. Not that we’re suicidal, or that we’ve murdered anyone (yet), but yesterday she almost got me into big trouble. I had spent the day wandering the streets, sleeping on the grass, watching the river and generally waiting for the night bus to Salta. …
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Bicicleta
San Ignacio Mini merited a stop as the best Jesuit-Guaraní ruins are to be seen there. Together with 3 other sites close by, it was declared a World Heritage site in 1984, for its ‘arcitectural beauty and evidence of unrepeatable history’. As a former UNESCO Director General stated: “It is a matter of protecting the …
Blessed
Is it possible for the soul to expand? If indeed, mine doubled in size after my Iguazu experience. The indigenous people of this region, the Guaraní, revered the falls in the Iguazú river. Iguazú is derived from the Guaraní word for ‘big water’, a very apt description for one of the world’s great natural wonders. It …
Slow exit
Exit, not departure. According to my online dictionary, the latter means leaving a place, whereas the former means the way in which one leaves. A slow exit has its merits. And by slow I mean by foot, down a 200m dirt driveway, having to negotiate my pink suitcase around mud puddles, very successfully I might …
Camino del Indio
Never judge a book by its cover, the saying goes. That is the case with Camino del Indio, the place that I’ve been staying and working at. The mere name, which means ‘the way of the aboriginal people’, indicates that it is a sanctimonial place, where people respect nature, the ancestral ways and unsophisticated manner …
Mate
Mate is a culture, not a tea. It is used as means of inclusion, of creating companionship. It is ingrained in the culture, and when you are invited to participate, it is a sign of acceptance. On Sunday I came to fully appreciate the extent of the habit, or more aptly, the ritual. Let me …
White eyes
‘Maril!’ He calls me to sit down beside him by the huge bonfire which is gradually reaching manageable proportions. ‘What is your title for the day?’, he wants to know. Before I can answer, he says: ‘I have one: White Eyes. You see that dog with the white eyes that is blind? Sometimes he doesn’t …
Watch what you ask for
Last year I did a competent crew course, in the hope of sailing to South America. The only sailing I ended up doing, was from Knysna to Gordon’s Bay. Not that simple. It turned out to be a gruelling 3-day survival trip in a galing south-easter, with the other crew member below deck with sea-sickness, …
On my way to Sante Fe
My hot, steaming breath blows little white clouds out on the crisp morming air as I emerge from the subway. I’m sweating, in spite of the 5°C, as I’ve been lugging my 20kg suitcase and 10kg backpack up and down stairs down there, en route to the bus station. And here I am, on the …
Turns, right and wrong
Of course I do gardens on a Sunday. The most beautiful in Buenos Aires is the Parque 3 de Febrero in Palermo, an area north of the microcenter (as it is known). It is far from my apartment, so I decided to brave the public transport. Someone had given me a SUBE card, a magnetic …
